I arrive in Cañon City in less than two hours and in time for the twelve thirty departure of the Royal Gorge Railroad.  The railroad runs west from Cañon City through the Royal Gorge (hence the name), a one thousand foot deep canyon cut through the mountains by the Arkansas River. 

The train is pulled by two streamlined, 1949 locomotives operated - amazingly - by a retired engineer who drove these same locomotives 40 years ago in regular service.  I manage to obtain a seat in the locomotive between Bob, the engineer, and Bob, a retired CPA from Philadelphia who travels the country by swapping his time share with other retirees.  CPA Bob shares with me the story of his wife's battle with breast/bone cancer which is chilling and explains why she is riding in the air-conditioned coach while CPA Bob rides up front.  Engineer Bob tells stories of his days on the rails, visiting titty bars in Chicago while on layovers and being mooned by busty females rafting on the Arkansas River. 

The Gorge is beautiful and intimidating.  The tracks run along the north bank of the Arkansas River and the canyon wall is close enough to touch if I dared lean past CPA Bob to do so.  River rafts pass us on their way down river and a couple of rafters drop their pants to moon the train.  I'm too slow with the camera to catch the flash of white flesh passing on the rapids.  Engineer Bob laughs and recalls last summer when really lusty women mooned his locomotive.

This railroad line was built using convict labor from the territorial prison.  The prison itself was built using convict labor.  In fact, most of Cañon City was built by convicts. The prison remains in use and stands across the street from the depot in Cañon City.

My hotel is the 117 year old Saint Cloud Hotel on Main Street.  The bellhop/desk clerk/elevator operator tells me the elevator is the oldest operating elevator in all of Colorado.  I suspect this has greater relevance to the profitability of the property than it does any historic value.  My room on the third floor is cooled by an anemic window air conditioner and ceiling fan attached to the not-historic drop down ceiling.  The bellhop/desk clerk/elevator operator (his forehead beaded with sweat) tells me I should just leave the air conditioner on so it the room will eventually cool down.  Before returning to the lobby, he reminds me I'm on the third floor and the hot water will take a few minutes to reach my shower.  The hotel was also built with convict labor.

Cañon City is in the grips of full-fledge red, white and blue fever.  Every store window features red, white and blue themes.  The wedding store even offers a red, white and blue striped wedding dress with accompanying brides maids dresses in full matching colors.

Colorado, especially this portion of Colorado, is Christian Country.  Passing through Colorado Springs earlier in the day, I suppressed my desire to stop at the Focus on the Family Visitor Center (marked with official highways signs and a dedicated exit).  Cañon City sports a store called Christian Outfitters complete with shirts claiming:  "It's Hell Without Jesus!"

I'll give my air conditioner time to work by watching Charlie's Angels at the Skyline Theatre.  I'll move on to Durango in the morning and will miss the Annual Chicken Flying Contest and Women's In-House Encounter with Old Glory.